It is noticeable that on a calm day, there are very few waves, but on a stormy or windy day there are many waves. This is a result of a combination of the wind and the shape of the seabed. The wind blows the surface layers of the sea, gradually forming a rolling movement of the water. A wave is, in fact, an up and down movement of water particles. As the bottom of a wave strikes the ground, at a short distance from the shore, it slows down because of the friction. The top continues, and then topples over, and this is what forms a “breaker” .
